039. Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Kong Athit and Dr. Mark Anner on Workers and Factory Management Collaborating to Advocate a Bigger Piece of the Pie Part 1

This is part one of our conversation with Dr. Mark Anner and union leader Kong Athit. What would it take for workers and factory management to work together to advocate for a bigger piece of the pie, so to speak? [...]
13 Apr 2021
00:30:52
Manufactured
Manufactured
039. Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Kong Athit and Dr. Mark Anner on Workers and Factory Management Collaborating to Advocate a Bigger Piece of the Pie Part 1
/

This is part one of our conversation with Dr. Mark Anner and Kong Athit.

Mark is a Professor, Labor and Employment Relations and Director at the Center for Global Workers’ Rights. Kong Athit. Athit started out in the fashion industry as a factory worker and is now the President of the Coalition of Cambodian Apparel Workers’ Democratic Union (CCAWDU).

During the sixth edition of GIZ FABRIC’s online seminar series Mark suggested that workers and factory management are fighting over an increasingly small piece of the pie, and that instead of fighting over their respective shares, workers and managers should be collaborating to increase the size of the piece.

In this episode, Mark shares some context. How big, exactly, is the piece of the pie we’re talking about? And what’s his dream scenario for what worker and factory management collaboration should look like?

We then turn to Kim, in her capacity as former factory manager, and Athit, in his capacity as Union leader. Is Mark’s vision crazy? And how do narratives that pit workers and managers against each other end up inadvertently hurting the cause?

Want to dig deeper ?

The FABRIC project is commissioned by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development and supports the Asian textile industry in its transformation towards fair production for people and the environment.

Both Athit and Mark were panelists on the sixth edition of GIZ FABRIC’s online seminar series. Learn more about GIZ FABRIC’s online seminar series “Getting Through the Crisis Together: Asian Dialogues on Sustainability in the Textile and Garment Industry.

Check out Dr. Mark Anner’s report Abandoned (about order cancellations at the onset of the global pandemic), and his follow-up report Leveraging Desperation.

Read Dr. Mark Anner’s report on Sourcing Dynamics, Workers’ Rights, and Inequality in Garment Global Supply Chains in India Inequality; India Report.

Find out more about Jobbers Agreements.

Check out Kim’s article How Singular Narratives of Worker-Management Relations Fail Us

Check out episode 24 when we talk to Cambodian Labor Law expert Matthew Rendall on how legal context shapes worker-management relationships.

Learn more about CCAWDU.

Jessie Li

Recent Episodes

92. How it’s made: On Cotton with Rajeev Baruah

92. How it’s made: On Cotton with Rajeev Baruah

On this episode we’re taking a look at cotton value chains in the Indian context with Rajeev Baruah, who has worked in cotton for decades. Though his background is originally in agriculture and tea, his cotton journey started with a spinning facility back in the 90s on a mission to work with organic cotton farmers – something that, at the time, was unheard of. In the years since, he’s gone on to work in a number of different roles with different stakeholders across the value chain. Rajeev gives Kim an in-depth look at the steps that go into growing, harvesting, ginning, and spinning cotton, who the commercial actors are, and what their incentives might be within the Indian context.

read more
91. How it’s made: On Garment Finishing with Rita Castro & Dionísia Portela

91. How it’s made: On Garment Finishing with Rita Castro & Dionísia Portela

On this episode we’re exploring one of the final stages of production in apparel manufacturing with Rita Castro & Dionísia Portela from Confetil, a Portuguese garment manufacturer that has been supplying brands all over the world since 1960. Dionísia is Sustainability Manager and Rita is Sales and Commercial Manager for four of Confetil’s customers. They tell us more about the processes that give our clothes the final look and feel that brands aim for, from solid T-shirts to those with graphic patterns or vintage looks, different types of dyes and dyeing processes, and the sustainability of these finishing processes.

read more
90. How it’s made: On Silk with Hilmond Hui

90. How it’s made: On Silk with Hilmond Hui

To understand the process, benefits and barriers within regenerative sericulture, we go back to Kim’s conversation from November 2021 with Hilmond Hui, Vice President of international clothing enterprise PFG and its subset Bombyx. Hilmond tells us more about Bombyx, which was formed in 2018 with a focus on regenerative silk production and transforming the way silk is produced, traded and consumed. Their Nanchong Ka Fung (NCKF) facility is located in the northeast of China’s Sichuan province, and they’re on a mission to do everything from dirt to fabric and beyond.

read more