050. Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Professor Raymond Robertson on Social Compliance & Factory Closure Rates

This is part one of our conversation with Professor Raymond Robertson. Are socially compliant factories more or less likely to go out of business? What can we make of his findings? [...]
18 May 2021
00:40:38
Manufactured
Manufactured
050. Manufactured x GIZ FABRIC: Professor Raymond Robertson on Social Compliance & Factory Closure Rates
/

This is part one of our conversation with Professor Raymond Robertson. Raymond is the Helen and Roy Ryu Chair in Economics and Government within the Department of International Affairs at the Bush School of Government and Public Service. He’s the Director of the Mosbacher Institute for Trade, Economics, and Public Policy, Texas A&M University. He is a research fellow at the Institute for the Study of Labor in Bonn, Germany, and a senior research fellow at the Mission Foods Texas-Mexico Center.

We cover some expansive questions: Why have working conditions in the garment industry remained interesting to him over the years? And how have his research questions evolved? We then get into some of his most recent research, which looks at data from the Better Factories program in Cambodia to evaluate how working conditions correspond to factory closure rates. Are socially compliant factories more or less likely to go out of business? And what can we make of his findings?

Want to dig deeper ?

Our episodes this week are thanks to our collaboration with the GIZ FABRIC. The FABRIC project is commissioned by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development and supports the Asian textile industry in its transformation towards fair production for people and the environment.

Raymond was a speaker on the third edition of GIZ FABRIC’s online seminar series called “Getting Through the Crisis Together: Asian Dialogues on Sustainability in the Textile and Garment Industry.

Read Professor Robertson’s research: Working conditions and factory survival: Evidence from better factories Cambodia

There’s increasing alignment around the idea that social compliance audits haven’t delivered for workers. The New Conversations Project put forward several theories as to why this is (and this latest April publication goes into more details on the opacity theory).

Jessie Li

Photo by Fran Hogan

Recent Episodes

92. How it’s made: On Cotton with Rajeev Baruah

92. How it’s made: On Cotton with Rajeev Baruah

On this episode we’re taking a look at cotton value chains in the Indian context with Rajeev Baruah, who has worked in cotton for decades. Though his background is originally in agriculture and tea, his cotton journey started with a spinning facility back in the 90s on a mission to work with organic cotton farmers – something that, at the time, was unheard of. In the years since, he’s gone on to work in a number of different roles with different stakeholders across the value chain. Rajeev gives Kim an in-depth look at the steps that go into growing, harvesting, ginning, and spinning cotton, who the commercial actors are, and what their incentives might be within the Indian context.

read more
91. How it’s made: On Garment Finishing with Rita Castro & Dionísia Portela

91. How it’s made: On Garment Finishing with Rita Castro & Dionísia Portela

On this episode we’re exploring one of the final stages of production in apparel manufacturing with Rita Castro & Dionísia Portela from Confetil, a Portuguese garment manufacturer that has been supplying brands all over the world since 1960. Dionísia is Sustainability Manager and Rita is Sales and Commercial Manager for four of Confetil’s customers. They tell us more about the processes that give our clothes the final look and feel that brands aim for, from solid T-shirts to those with graphic patterns or vintage looks, different types of dyes and dyeing processes, and the sustainability of these finishing processes.

read more
90. How it’s made: On Silk with Hilmond Hui

90. How it’s made: On Silk with Hilmond Hui

To understand the process, benefits and barriers within regenerative sericulture, we go back to Kim’s conversation from November 2021 with Hilmond Hui, Vice President of international clothing enterprise PFG and its subset Bombyx. Hilmond tells us more about Bombyx, which was formed in 2018 with a focus on regenerative silk production and transforming the way silk is produced, traded and consumed. Their Nanchong Ka Fung (NCKF) facility is located in the northeast of China’s Sichuan province, and they’re on a mission to do everything from dirt to fabric and beyond.

read more